Threads 59: Dyes for basketry materials
I was not surprised to receive a request from a reader asking about dyeing round or flat reed,a.k.a. centre or flat cane. This material is made of bast or cellulose fibers, in other words it grows like a plant, i.e. flax or cotton. This is in contrast to protein fibres, like hair, wool, or silk that grow from animals, people, insects, etc.
As result, the different types of fibres require different dyes to be effective. Some packets of dye are labeled as “All Purpose” dyes, and this means they contain two different types of dye, one of which will work with the bast fibres, the other with the protein fibres.
Other dyes, such as acid dyes, will only work on protein fibers. Basic dyes with bast fibres.
In relatively more recent times, chemical dyes have been made, and these dyes are known as Procion. They are not kind to the protein fibers, but are ideal for the bast fibres and basketry materials.
Another type of dyes are the natural or plant dyes. These often require mordants to help the effectiveness of the dye. A mordant is a substance, typically an inorganic oxide, that combines with a dye or stain and thereby fixes it in a material. Examples include tannic acid, oxalic acid, alum, chrome alum, sodium chloride, and certain salts.For basket makers, the most wonderful dye is walnut husks, and to a lesser degree butternut husks. These can be collected in the fall, dried and saved for use later. They simply need to be soaked and boiled up to make a splendid dark brown dye. The dye liquid can be kept in a freezer, but will go moldy if just left in a jar in the basement. Natural dyes will fade quickly on baskets except the walnut dies which are extremely long lasting.
Testing for lightfastness: It is always disappointing to see the colour in a basket fade. The best solution is to test the dyed material on a sunny windowsill. Carefully cover up half the material, and leave the rest in the light. Check after a few weeks and compare the two halves.
If you plan to dye your basketry materials you will need special equipment. Never use the kitsch, or use any kitchen containers or spoons. Always wear gloves when handling dyes, and wear a mask when handling parted dyes and chemicals. Wear an apron or old clothes. Use enamel pots, not aluminum.
Follow the instructions on the dye packet, and always rinse well. Be cautious discarding the dye bath particularly if it contains chemicals. For serious basket makers who sell their work I recommend using procion dyes.